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The Mojave National Preserve

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The Mojave National Preserve is a lonely triangle of land, bordered by major freeways north and south and the Colorado River to the east. It is a huge area; by their sheer weight, the numbers describing the land become meaningless: 1.4 million acres, 16 mountain ranges, 10,000 mining claims yet only 4 active mines. Geologically it is fascinating: coal-black lava flows, shimmering salt lakebeds, purple mountain ranges, layer upon layer of rocks - some that are as old as a billion years and others as young as less than a thousand.

To the first Americans who traveled through this area by foot, horse and wagon, this uncommonly beautiful country was a peculiar form of hell. Dry and desolate, it was and still is. Especially to those men and women coming from the lush forests of the east and south, the desert land was a barren expanse to be barely tolerated before arriving in the Promised Land of California.

The first time I saw this empty triangle of land, I saw a place I wanted to know. It is a place I could live in forever. To call it vast and scenic is to call the sky blue. It's a fact, but just as the blue of the sky can have many hues, "vast" is more than just a description of its size. The vastness is a palpable force, an assault on the senses.

You stand on a rock and look forever. You're a mile high, standing amongst pinon and scrub pine, looking down into white and brown playas and the blue mountain ranges that rise from them. The startlingly black lava flows are so dark they soak up the sun and throw back no colors, no reflections. It is a black so strong you think a cloud is blocking the sun, but not a single cloud is in the sky. When you're in the Joshua forests they stretch to the horizon, a crazy jangle of desert dancers reaching to the heavens. Sand dunes climb to the sky. Jagged rock peaks jut out of the ground -- but just a few miles away are soft, rounded hills, almost as tall, but geologically they just don't belong here. These soft hills are a startling contrast to the granite pinnacles.

To really know this place would take a lifetime of journeys. Over the next few months we'll be exploring the Mojave National Preserve and adding articles to this section. These pages will grow sporadically, so feel free to stop back by and see what we've added - and if you get impatient for more, use the "contact us" at the bottom of the page to nudge us along.

Our first article deals with the history of the Mojave Road, the lonely dotted line bisecting the map above.

Mojave Road: Early history
Rock Springs
Mitchell Caverns

Editor's note: all photos and text on this site are protected by copyright. Please contact us for reprint rights and availability.

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